Fly front construction for the Chelsea pants

I’ve made the StyleArc Chelsea pant twice now and the StyleArc Sally jean skirt. Both patterns have a fly front with a facing and a separate fly bearer which covers the zip on the inside, protecting you (and your underwear) from the zipper teeth. I really love this fly front – it seems like a ‘proper’ menswear style fly front zip, rather than most women’s sewing patterns which often leave off the bearer (compare to the Colette method here). The front topstitching for this method looks very much like it is constructed in the same way as my factory-made jeans.

StyleArc provide instructions and several diagrams for this method. but I found that it wasn’t quite obvious enough for me, so I wrote down these steps and took some photos (which are intended to augment the instructions in the pattern) so that I could do it perfectly when I make these again. I also added when to finish edges. I hope that this helps you too!

1. Overlock/finish curved edge of fly facing.

2. Sew fly facing to right pant front.

3. Turn to face and press.

4. Sew zip to left pant piece using zipper foot. You can line up the edge of the zip and pant piece due to 10mm seam allowance. Don’t sew to close to zip, I like a 2-3mm gap between teeth and stitching.

5. Fold fly bearer in half wrong sides together and press, overlock/finish bottom edge.

6. Cover zip with bearer and sew.

7. Turn to face and topstitch.

8. Zig zag finish inside seam raw edges on both right and left sides. (I find it too narrow and fiddly to overlock)

9. Attach right and left sides of pants along crotch seam, right side up so you can meet the seam line at the zip opening. Back stitch securely at zipper opening.

10. Attach fly facing to zip keeping bearer and right front free. Use a zipper foot.

11. With bearer still folded out return right front to its place and topstitch up to start of curve using zipper foot. (The straight line of stitching on the left in this image.)

12. Return bearer to its place and topstitch curve connecting right front to bearer, narrow zigzag to secure. (This curve is shown in white chalk in image above and below.)



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