Sometimes garment sewing is a lot of work for little gain. This is one of those times. Years ago I was inspired by Mary Nanna’s lovely version of Butterick 5030. I bought the pattern, presumably the next time that they went on sale. Then last summer as I was trying to find, in the hazy baby sleep deprivation fog, a summer dress suitable for breastfeeding. Let me tell you there are not many. Button front, wrap or knit with a very stretchy neckline, Or a specialist pattern, oh hang on, those hardly exist. So I pulled out Butterick 5030.
I started tracing and altering. I always trace because my patterns require so much butchery. I trace on the kitchen table, so I have to constantly pack up and unpack my work. I fought for my little 1 hour blocks of time and after a couple of weeks of devoting every spare time block to this project I had traced the bodice 5 times and I STILL was not even up to cutting out. I gave up. I traced the wrong bodice view. I traced the right one in the wrong size. Right view, right size, too small FBA. Right view, right size big enough FBA which totally distorts the pattern. And finally again, witha Y-style FBA (the photo above shows a 4cm ‘normal’ full bust adjustment and a Y FBA, check out the humunga dart, wacky armscye and way too much length on the normal FBA). I lot of the error is from my realisation that for the neck and shoulders to fit I need to trace a 14, one size smaller than my high bust measurement. This then ensures that I need a huge FBA, full bicep adjustment, and to grade the side seam to my waist size (20) and hip size (24). At this point I almost concede the sewing clothes that fit me is almost as annoying as buying ready to wear that fits me. Almost, but not quite.
Anyway, I gave up. Then this summer I pulled it out all those traced pieces, and decided to damn well just sew it up. I had the blue linen from Lincraft, I might as well.
I attempted the flutter sleeve and the fitted sleeve shortened and gave up on both. I ran out of fabric and energy for any kind of belt, though perhaps it could use one. I covered the waist dart to gathers as it was all getting to hard. That was a big mistake, it’s pretty poofy there.
And it definitely requires a cami and a half slip if wardrobe malfunctions are to be avoided. And after all that alteration there is way too much bust ease in there. I really don’t know how that happened. I obviously have tissue fitting issues.
Anyway I wore it to Melbourne Cup Day at a friends house (hence the flowers in the hair – we didn’t have hats).
The host, when pressed, suggested it was best as house dress. Hmmm.