Flared denim skirt – McCall’s 5431

Flared denim skirt – McCall’s 5431

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So I’ve managed to sew a wearable skirt! It’s a bit of a win, it’s been so long since I had a success. The pattern is McCall’s 5431 which I bought in a pattern sale a few years ago. It’s now out of print. This is a really flared skirt.

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I picked the pattern because I find yoked waists quite comfortable to wear and the pockets seemed quirkily cute.

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They really are giant, but secure enough for my phone.

The fabric is a mid weight, reasonably drapy non-stretch denim from my stash.

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The pattern sizing is a bit annoying. I graded the pattern up three sizes from a 20 to a 26 which should have had a 40″ waist according to the pattern sizes. I was aiming for a 43″ waist and had to take out the zipper and remove 2″ from the centre back. It’s still a bit big and I do really need to wear a belt to keep it up. And I measured the pattern pieces and everything!

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I initially made the view D in the longer length but the mid-calf length plus the volume was pretty dowdy, so I hemmed it back to knee length and used package bis binding for the hem facing.

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This is not, dare I say it, the most flattering skirt shape in the world, but it’s comfortable and practical and get the feeling that I might end up wearing this skirt quite a lot. It also looks good with the shorter length of my silky wool customfit jumper, so that’s a win too!

 

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Grey denim skirt

So here’s the first thing I made on my new machine – a grey denim skirt using the OOP Kwik Sew 3362.

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This is the fourth time I’ve made this pattern. I made it in purple corduroy as one of my first sewing projects back in 2008 (photo here). I made a full length version in dark red ponte (pictured at the bottom of this post), and a I made a blue denim version that I later maternity-ized with a stretch waistband. I was still wearing that version a month ago, and I wore the red one recently too.

This time I graded the pattern to an XXL, added back waist darts, reshaped the side seams considerably and used an invisible zipper. I also had to shorten the skirt a fair bit which is pretty unusual for me as I’m 5’10”. I top stitched all the panel seams too.

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The invisible zipper foot on my new machine is quite different to what I’ve used before so I had quite a bit of trouble with it. I sewed it too close for the zipper to close and unpicked it several times. Now it’s too wide, but in the interest of gaining a wearable skirt sooner, I left it.

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You can see that the back waist facing is rolling up already which is a pain, and not something I’ve ever managed to solve.

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I think I’m done with this pattern. I wear the skirt all the time, but I’m not in love with the way the grading made the curved panels come so far down onto the thigh. I think I would have been better just to cut wider side seams so I could do the dart/shaping that I needed to.

Overall this is a very useful wardrobe basic that I was desperately in need of. Sewing time is incredibly precious and rare these days – this skirt took me weeks of 20 minutes here and there. However on I go. I have a floral maxi skirt in progress…. I think it’s destined to be worn with leggings the way the weathers going. Oh well!