Cashmerette Concord Tee – sewing win!

Cashmerette Concord Tee – sewing win!

I was soooo excited when this pattern was released (link here). A t-shirt drafted on a curvy block, with cupsizes- awesome! I had actually had disappointing results from the Cashmerette Washington dress (unblogged) but was determined to make this work. My end aim was to make my own graphic printed tees that fitted perfectly by refashioning commercial tees, and this has totally worked out!

Iteration 1
I used an old t-shirt of my husbands for this – is is 100% cotton jersey with not much stretch, the neck and sleeve bands are stash fabric.

I emailed Jenny for a sizing suggestion and she got back to me quickly – such good service. This is a straight 20 C/D. My measurements are 45-40-52 (with cup size much larger than C/D but it works). I went for a size that gave me zero ease at the bust rather than negative ease as the knits I was planning to use are not very stretchy.

Iteration 2

This is cotton-elastane jersey from the stash, and the V-neck option. Wearing this around convinced me that I needed a smaller size in the shoulders and a full bicep adjustment. I also added an inch of length at the waist.

Iteration 3

This is a refashion of a mens 3XL short sleeve shirt from threadless on clearance. Sadly these lovely designs are printed on a 45% polyester shirt – ugh.

I feel that the fit is getting very good by this tee. It is an 18 C/D down to the underarm and then 20C/D on down, with 1″ full bicep adjustment and 1″ added length at waist. You can see I reused the sleeve hems from the original tee.

My only regret is that I straight stitched the neckband seam allowance down. I did stretch as I sewed, but is has still caused unsightly gathers and pulling in. I have worn this shirt a lot though.

Iteration 4

This is my favorite, another threadless mens 3XL.

You can see I had to cut off the top of the design to get my pattern piece on, but I still think it looks ok. I zigzagged around the neckline this time. This version gets worn straight from the wash – I love it!

Iteration 5 – a tangent.

Well actually this threadless mens 2XL long sleeve was too narrow in the hips to fit my Concord pattern piece so I refashioned it for my 8 year old. Lucky girl! I love this print. This tee is also 100% cotton.

The pattern is Ottobre 3/2010-31 Funky Sisters. This is size 152 with 3cm added to each side seam. I compared the pattern pieces to some of her current tees and this pattern is super-super slim fit as drafted.

So I’m now in search of some more awesome graphic tees to refashion. unfortunately I’m going to have to use a raglan pattern to get long sleeves, but I’m ok with that. And the Cashmerette Concord tee pattern – 100% thumbs up from me, it’s a super curve flattering draft with great instructions. Thanks Jenny!

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Social sewing and my first Renfrew

So I finally made it to Social Sewing! I had a really lovely six hours away from the usual goings on of life. I met some lovely sewists, sewed up my first Renfrew top, traced out both versions of the Hummingbird skirt, started cutting it out and generally enjoyed some time to myself. The very lovely Helen of FunkBunnysGarden was also wearing a hot off the press Renfrew Рso here we are!

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Her version was totally gorgeous.

I was pretty happy with this T-shirt as my first iteration of the pattern.

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My current full bust measurement is 43″ and the largest size in this pattern is a US RTW 16 designed for a 41″ bust. Given the larger sizes are 2″ apart, this puts me at a US 18. I traced the size 16 for the neckline, shoulders and down the armscye to the underarm point, then traced where the 18 would be if it existed for the inner sleeve seam, side body seam, hem seam, sleeve cuffs and waist band. It is a rather generous fit. Perfect for weekends with jeans or general slouching around but a neater, less baggy fit through the body would probably look more polished. I’ll try a more fitted version next.

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The fabric is a cotton lycra jersey from Spotlight. It is a reasonable weight and very stable – good for winter. My favourite part of this pattern is the length of the sleeve right off the bat! So long, so lovely. My RTW long sleeves tops are all 7/8 length at best after a few trips through the wash. The body length is pretty good too, though I’m not 100% sold on the waistband finish. The band is not tight but it causes the hem to ride up a bit. The banded cuffs work well though.

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The neckband was too long to sit well. I cut it as per the pattern and followed the notches. There was enough stretch in the band around the bottom of the curve but you can see that the sides wrinkle up a bit. On a side note, I personally find a 15mm seam allowance overkill on a knit neckband seam, I prefer 10mm seams. I sewed, overlocked then topstitched the seam allowance down. Normally I’d use a stretchy decorative stitch on my machine for this, or a well stretched straight stitch but I thought I try the zig zag. I’m not totally sold. It is a more casual and er, homemade finish.

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Overall I’m really happy with this top and I plan to make several more. A winner at last!